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Blog · 3 March 2025

Panchakarma retreat in India: a two-week diary

The two weeks I spent at an Ayurvedic centre in India were filled with new experiences, purification of body and mind, and true recovery. Here is a diary-style summary of my trip and the panchakarma process I underwent.

Arrival and first steps

The journey from Kochi Airport took about 2½–3 hours, and I arrived at the centre after lunch. First, I met with a doctor, who drew up my treatment plan and explained the procedures. After settling in, I enjoyed a cup of tea, and before the evening treatments we went for a boat ride to explore the surroundings. As the evening treatments ran late, I was the last person to have dinner and had to drink a jugful of turmeric-infused liquid throughout the night.

The first few days: yoga, massages and rice soup

Shirodhara treatment at an Ayurvedic centre in Kerala: a therapist pours warm oil onto the forehead

Every morning began at 6 am with yoga, followed by breakfast. During the first few days, I was still eating regular food, and it was very tasty. Massages took place throughout the day, and after lunch I felt very tired and had a nap before tea. Every day, I had to drink a jugful of a special liquid that helped to cleanse the body.

Ghee days: cleansing the body from within

A participant in treatment attire in the corridor of an Ayurvedic centre in Kerala

On the third day, my ghee (clarified butter) treatment began. Every morning before 6 o’clock, I was given a portion of ghee, which I had to increase gradually:

  • Day 1: 50 ml
  • Day 2: 100 ml
  • Day 3: 150 ml (already unpleasant, but manageable)
  • Day 4: 200 ml (my body started to react)
  • Day 5: 250 ml (difficult to swallow, but I could feel my body cleansing itself)

During those days, I ate nothing but rice soup and chickpea pancakes, whilst drinking warm ginger water. My fatigue increased, but the massages helped me recover. After the ghee cleanse, I started to feel a strong appetite again, which was a great relief.

Coming out of the process and regaining energy

When the ghee regimen ended, I had rice water for breakfast, and mung beans were added throughout the day. This slight change in flavour made me extremely happy. Later that day, I had an oil massage, which relaxed my body, and my fatigue gave way to a gentle sense of calm.

Back to a normal diet

The dining hall at the Ayurveda centre in Kerala: vegetarian food served in clay pots

As I was coming to the end of the cleansing process, I was able to start enjoying a more varied diet again. During the day, we also went into town to do some shopping at the FabIndia shop and explored the surrounding area. I had fully recovered and my energy levels were back.

The final days and departure

During the final days, I focused on treatments, yoga and peaceful recovery. As a parting gift, I was given 2.8 metres of fabric traditionally used by the locals. By Thursday evening, my diary had run out of pages – it felt like a symbolic sign that my time here was drawing to a close.

On the day of my departure, I had one last oil massage and was fully ready to return home. This experience was something I will never forget – a true holiday for both body and mind.

If this journey appeals to you, check the Panchakarma retreat page to see when the next group is heading to Kerala. If India seems too far away at the moment, you can undergo the same process in a gentler form as a home Panchakarma in Estonia.